My father retired from the U.S. Army six months before my college graduation, and bought a house in Enid, Oklahoma. His mother Sara Ann had passed away while he was in Germany, and he and Louise decided to care for his elderly father and try to revive his Dad’s tottering hardware business. If all went as my father dreamed, Rude & Co. would stay in business for another generation. With his Army retirement pay my father didn’t need the money from running a business; he seemed to be searching for some self-respect that had evaporated while he was in the Army.
Louise and my father came to Spokane for my commencement, then drove me back to Enid with them in their Mercedes. (I sold my Henry-J for $50 to another unsuspecting Whitworth student.)
My Peace Corps training was about to begin at Georgetown University in Washington, D.C. I had no idea what to expect, but started training like an athlete, immersing myself in books about the Horn of Africa, and circling the Enid High School track in newly purchased track shoes.
After several weeks in Enid, my father sent me off on the bus to the Oklahoma City air-port with a well-intentioned racist comment—“Don’t come back with any polka-dot children.” I include this comment not to denigrate my father, but to illustrate how widespread and natural such racism seemed to be in the 1960s. Bus boycotts and sit-ins were just beginning in 1962. The civil rights revolution had not yet kicked into high gear.
I arrived in Georgetown in the depth of the Capitol city’s muggy dampness. Milling around me were hundreds of confused, tired Peace Corps recruits, men and women of all races. The atmosphere was a mixture of Army boot camp and elite graduate school.
It soon became clear to everyone that the “Peace Corps” was still little more than a vague political dream. The actual organization was being improvised at Georgetown and other campuses around Washington. Our project’s 375 trainees would awaken at 6:00 AM and assemble in the dark on the soccer field. European coaches put us through calisthenics, after which we would run around the track. Classes in linguistics, African history and culture, and two sessions daily in the Amharic language followed breakfast.
We had lots of free time, because the schedule was still being formed. On the spur of the moment it seemed, we would be ushered into large auditoriums to hear lectures by Marga-ret Mead, Chester Bowles, or some other relic of the New Deal era. We would hustle off on hikes in the Blue Ridge mountains or along the C. & O. canal, accompanied by aspiring politicians like Jay Rockefeller (now a Democratic Senator from West Virginia.)
Many conversations were overtly political and reeked with the hubris of the Ivy League graduates in our midst, both trainees and staff. Our project’s leader, Harris Wofford, had been a close Kennedy advisor in the election campaign. He had arranged the letter from Kennedy to Dr. Martin Luther King while he was in Birmingham’s jail, an act which some historians claim won Kennedy the African-American vote, and hence the election. Wofford’s role in Ethiopia was to be plenipotentiary to all of Africa, using Addis Ababa as a base for fostering people-to-people diplomacy. An idealist of the first order, Harris both captured and molded the vision of what the Peace Corps was meant to be.
Information about Ethiopia was almost too exotic to absorb during training. The only useful discussions took place with our Amharic language trainers, Ethiopian graduate students gathered from around the U.S. They were relatively free to discuss politics and culture, expressing opinions that might have landed them in jail under Emperor Haile Selassie’s dictatorship. A coup by one of the Emperor’s sons had recently been quashed. We nervously probed the language trainers for details that might suggest there would be danger for Americans.
One of the trainers was from Eritrea, federated with Ethiopia, yet (because it was a for-mer Italian colony) also a protectorate under a U.N. agreement brokered in 1951. The Eritreans seemed more sophisticated and honest than the other Ethiopians. He also described Eritrea as a more friendly, enlightened place than Ethiopia proper. His affectionate tales about his homeland reminded me of Babar, a children’s story about an orphaned elephant who becomes king of the forest. Knowing that as soon as we arrived in country we would be bidding on assignments, I set my sights on Eritrea.
After seven weeks of training we were taken as a group to the White House, where we milled on the lawn and shook hands with our tanned, smiling President. A few days later, after an exhausting jet flight over 10,000 miles, we stood in a formal line to shake hands with the King of Kings, the Lion of Judah himself. I was in a dream-like state, a character in my own fairy tale. Reality was lurking just around the corner.
As we adjusted to the poverty and rainy summer weather in Addis Ababa, I scanned my new group of Peace Corps friends to find a potential partner. Most of the Italian-Americans were being assigned to Eritrea on the assumption they could easily relate to the Italians still living there. I also met a St. Olaf’s College graduate, Jerry Springston, who was determined to bag the most stereotypical Peace Corps assignment available—preferably a remote village in a harsh environment. Wanting to rise to his courageous (if foolhardy) challenge, I volunteered to go with Jerry to Tessenei, a small village in Eritrea near the Sudan border.
Before Jerry and I took the daylong bus ride to Tessenei, we spent two weeks in Asmara, Eritrea’s Italian-built capital. The compact city of 300,00 people was a refreshing contrast to grimy Addis Ababa. Asmara had lovely villas, palm-lined avenues, and bright bougainvillea vines spilling like laughter over sun-washed walls. There was a palpable sense of pride and autonomy in the Eritrean people, reflected in the country’s blue flag, which bore the olive leaf of the United Nations. The police, dressed in crisp uniforms and Aussie-style cocked hats, seemed more helpful than oppressive. A multi-racial city, permanent home to 30,000 Italians who had chosen to stay after 20 years of British and Ethiopian administration, Asmara in the summer of 1962 had all the markings of a successful transition from colony to self-sufficient democracy.
During the bus trip to Eritrea’s western border, at a stop in the desert town of Agordat, I had my first encounter with Africa. Trying to find shade from the intense heat, I wandered into a market place crowded with camels. Astride one of these ungainly beasts sat a princely specimen of the Beni-Amir tribe—a muscular man with bushy hair, three slashes on each cheek, and a four-foot sword dangling from his saddle, next to a curved knife. The camel shuffled and brayed at this strange white foreigner gaping at the scene, but the desert trader fixed me with a stare that sent a shiver down my spine. In that instant I knew I would never again be the same person I had been before enlisting in the Peace Corps.
The 375 volunteers in Ethiopia and Eritrea were the first qualified teachers ever to be as-signed to high schools and middle schools throughout the Empire. Our mission was to “jump-start” Ethiopia’s education system, to bring it into the 20th century. (This oft-repeated phrase became something of an in-joke, since virtually everything in Ethiopia was still struggling to move beyond Biblical-era standards. A jump from the 1st to the 10th century would seem like an accomplishment.)
Tessenei’s middle school, established a decade before our arrival, symbolized the challenges that plagued all small-town schools. Teachers had given lessons and faithfully produced annual graduating classes over the years, yet not a single graduate had ever passed the national entrance examination for admission to high school. With typical American optimism, Jerry and I viewed the situation as an opportunity. If we succeeded in helping only one student to pass the exam, the measurable improvement would be infinite.
With complete unconcern about our lack of teacher training, or the fact that we could barely communicate with our principal or fellow teachers (even though the curriculum was nominally taught in English) Jerry and I plunged in. All the students had moldy copies of Oliver Goldsmith’s The Vicar of Wakefield, an English comedy of manners writ-ten in 1762. It was so wildly inappropriate as a tool for teaching English that we instantly threw the mandatory curriculum out the window and asked students instead to mimic our ESL pattern drills. Desks were crowded with students (even a few girls), but there were no blackboards—so we purchased Masonite panels and black paint, ordered chalk from Asmara, and—voila!—we had classrooms.
To be honest, we were having a ripping good time, despite days frequently hotter than 120 degrees. We made friends with Tessenei’s most powerful sheikh, as well as the Italian concessionaires who ran the local cotton farms. I picked up passable Italian just by playing billiardi with the farmers. Jerry and I sat in the market every evening, throwing down cards in the local version of gin rummy. I swore in Italian every time I lost a trick, but Jerry was too good a Christian to swear, and a weak linguist to boot. Nevertheless, it took only a few months for us to feel like we were entering into the village fabric.
One evening in November, 1962 all the shop stalls in town were unexpectedly shuttered, and Ethiopian soldiers at Tessenei’s street corners mounted machine guns. After a few days of rumors, Harris Wofford drove into town with a retinue of powerful Ethiopians. In the privacy of our rented house he gave us a full explanation of what had happened. The Emperor had long been disenchanted with the U.N. mandate, and managed to coerce enough members of the Eritrean assembly to vote for an end the federation. In what turned out to be a bloodless coup, Haile Selassie declared Eritrea as just another province of Ethiopia, sending troops to every village, adding exclamation points to his illegal seizure of the former Italian colony.
Although Wofford refused to concede the real reason (even years later during my conversations with him) all Eritreans and most Italians knew that the U.S. State Department acquiesced in the Emperor’s seizure of Eritrea because the U.S. National Security Agency leased a large, ostensibly secret listening station in Asmara. There was nothing “secret” about the American soldiers who roamed the bars and streets searching for beautiful, willing prostitutes. These antics, which seemed disgusting at the time, were hilariously described in I Never Did It For You, a history of Eritrea by B.B.C. correspondent Michele Wrong.
The serious side of American espionage was hard to miss, especially in light of the NSA’s domestic eavesdropping in the U.S. The National Security Agency’s powerful antennae, perched on peaks in Asmara’s highlands, could scoop up every radio signal transmitted by Russians, Arabs and even Israelis in the Middle East. Before the age of satellites, Americans needed Haile Selassie’s friendship far more than he needed theirs.
Life in Tessenei changed for the worse, but at first these changes were barely perceptible. Friendly leaders disappeared from town, either because they had been imprisoned or had gone underground to fight with Eritrea’s fledgling rebel movement, the Eritrean Liberation Front (ELF). Our school’s principal became more insecure and autocratic. There was rising tension between Muslim students and teachers (the majority) and the handful of highlander Christians who were mostly children of police officers. ELF activity escalated, with roadblocks, frightening searches for fugitives on buses and a hand-grenade attack in Agordat. Babar’s African paradise had started to turn ugly.
I continued to improve my spoken Italian, and learned to read the language by studying my only available bilingual text: a Bible printed in both Italian and English. A young Muslim shopkeeper tutored me with spoken Italian and read my Bible to study English.
After several months of casual exposure to Christian scripture the unstable boy went to see British missionaries and told them he wanted to convert to Christianity—a dangerous transformation in a conservative Muslim community. Not long after his conversion he was murdered while preaching in another town. Far from admiring his martyrdom, I was depressed by the possibility that I might be indirectly responsible for a mentally unstable person’s death.
Tessenei had its faults, but like most desert border posts, the town had gathered a colorful cast of rogues, saints and wild men. The town was orthodox Muslim in a way that I grew to admire. You could count on people’s promises, and you had to lock your doors. Five times a day, the muezzin’s call and my students’ prayer mats told me all I needed to know about the discipline and integrity of Islam. The presence of the British missionaries from the Sudan Interior Mission seemed totally superfluous, if not sinister. They were systematically attempting to dismantle a culture that, given the history of Sudan and other British colonies, seemed to me to be in no need of replacement or repair.
On one blazing hot Tessenei afternoon I needed the British doctor to attend my body, if not my soul (which he assumed was already bound for heaven’s reward.) I had been losing weight after vomiting most of my food intake each day. I thought I might have a tapeworm in my gut, like the one Jerry had acquired. (His “intimate little pet,” he called it.) But the pain grew too sharp and localized for me to ignore. The doctor’s probing fingers revealed that my appendix was about to burst. Surgery could be attempted in the missionary clinic, but he advised Jerry to drive me to the U.S. military hospital in Asmara, 200 miles distant over bumpy desert tracks.
Thanks to morphine, good luck and Jerry’s frantic driving, I arrived at the hospital before my appendix ruptured. The Army surgeon treated the surgery as a routine matter, but seemed perplexed by my willingness to “live among the natives” in such a remote place. After a week in hospital and another week of recovery, with Asmara Peace Corps volunteers serving me dinners to put weight back on my skeletal frame, I felt ready to return to Tessenei.
Soon afterward, I received two letters from my father with sad news. The first informed me that our house at Pine Ridge—my only true home—had burned to the ground as a result of a leak in the antiquated chimney. The next letter from my father told me that his father had died peacefully, after a brief illness, from prostate cancer. These letters, along with growing tension with Jerry and the insufferable heat, cast me into a depression.
We ended the school year with the success we hoped for: a single Kunama graduate (Ali Abdu) had passed the national exam. In the end, however, Tessenei got the better of me. A Peace Corps doctor conducted a physical and psychological review, and recommended that I be transferred to another village. I moved for the summer to Asmara which, because it was perched on a 7,000-foot plateau, meant that I would be free from the scorching desert heat.
My growing ability to speak Italian allowed me to move about with ease in Asmara, but an Eritrean teacher commented: “You are starting to sound more like a colonist than an American who came here to help us.”
“What should I do?” I responded. The highland language, Tigrinya, was spoken only in Eritrea and parts of Ethiopia. It would be useless anywhere else in the world. He recommended that I learn Arabic, which I had encountered in Tessenei, but I considered too difficult to learn. The teacher persuaded me that if I faced up to the challenge, I would find Arabic useful for the rest of my life.
Several volunteers from Eritrea’s lowlands were given permission by Peace Corps staff to request an Arabic teacher (a "spook") from the NSA listening base in Asmara. After a difficult six-week introduction to Arabic, taught by a young American Monterey Language School graduate, several of us decided to travel the Middle East to practice our newfound language skills. Our one-month tour through the Sudan, Egypt, Jordan, Lebanon, Syria and finally Cyprus sharpened my Arabic somewhat, but I was mostly awe-struck by the impressive cultural heritage of the region. My brief visit to Jerusalem, which then was under Jordanian control, convinced me that the Holy Land was so encrusted by overlapping and conflicting myths (including my Christian religious traditions) that it would never be a safe city until it was placed under international control.
When I returned to Eritrea I learned that I would be re-assigned for my second year to Adi Ugri, a highland village with few Muslims and virtually no one (beside me) who could speak Arabic. Five volunteers were assigned to Adi Ugri. Three (including me) were from the first wave of Peace Corps assigned to Ethiopia, and two others, both women, had just arrived from the U.S.
Our assignment was to teach in a new high school (9th grade) in what was already a distinguished middle school named after St. George, the patron saint of Orthodox Christians in Ethiopia. Italians had opened the school during the Mussolini era, restricting education for Eritreans to the fourth grade. Despite this, some of Eritrea’s most assertive leaders were St. George graduates, proving that even a minimally educated population can destabilize an autocratic regime.
My partner Nyle and I helped our headmaster Iyob, who himself had only a fourth grade education, in devising a complex schedule for 200 ninth-graders. Thinking it would be an easy task, Nyle and I were forced to stay up late into the night working out the mathematics to equalize class sizes and schedules. Next morning, as we laid the schedule out in front of Iyob, he responded: “I thought of this solution myself this very morning.” We knew that he was merely taking undeserved credit for our work, yet self-serving complaints from us would be graceless, so we remained silent. Forever afterward as I watched others steal or take credit for my intellectual efforts, I would quietly thank Iyob for teaching me the value of remaining silent.
As months passed, and I heard “useless” Tigrinya being spoken around me, I started to pick up the language, despite its restricted usefulness. Formal study of Arabic helped me, because both are Semitic languages with similar grammar and sounds. My most relentless Tigrinya teacher proved to be Letey, an aging former prostitute whom we had hired as our cook and servant. She was shocked each day to see the messy condition of my room, and shouted at me in Tigrinya, her only language, until I began to understand her meaning and started to shout back—in Tigrinya. The mutual affection and anger of these exchanges opened a door to Eritrea’s highland culture for me that has never closed. I also learned Tigrinya in the best way to learn a language: by engaging your heart and adding new words and idioms out of necessity.
Midway through my year in Adi Ugri one of the strangest, most humiliating events of my entire life occurred. I’ve re-told this story so many times that it has taken on the character of a legend -- yet, like all good myths, it reveals new, unsuspected layers of truth every time I tell it.
Our students, most of whom were bright, and determined to follow our lead into the modern world, nevertheless clung tenaciously to some local superstitions. One day they revealed to Nyle (who was teaching science) their excitement about the imminent visit of Yifter, an Ethiopian illusionist who claimed that he had eaten a truck. Tickets to Yifter’s show were beyond our students’ means, but they begged us to go see for ourselves the wonders of this magician.
Nyle was as concerned as I was about our students’ wide-eyed naiveté, but he treated the matter as a joke, offering to take a frying pan to the show to test Yifter’s ability to improvise as an iron-eater.
At some deeper level, the magician’s challenge to modern knowledge angered me. I knew that our students were all too susceptible to the claims of authority figures, and the Emperor himself had requested a command performance from Yifter, thus adding to the magician's credibility. I wanted my students to think for themselves, to treat any claim, from any source, with critical thought and healthy skepticism.
When the day for our show in Adi Ugri arrived, Nyle and I sat in the front seats of the theater next to headmaster Iyob, watching the magician proceeded to swallow bits of glass and metal, some quite obviously quite sharp. At one point, to verify Yifter’s capacity to eat metal, his assistant passed around a plate of quarter-inch long nails that the magician was about to swallow.
When the plate was passed to me, a strange rebellious impulse welled up inside me. How could we let Yifter get away with this deception? Perhaps the nails were digestible fakes. They were, after all, only small bits of metal—not an entire truck. Why, I muttered to myself, anyone could swallow nails, including me.
Distractedly, I popped a handful of nails into my mouth and swallowed them. Flustered, Nyle asked me if I had done what he just saw me do. “Yes,” I replied, “but I’m not sure why I did it.” Other spectators shifted their attention from Yifter to me. An uncomfortable awareness slowly dawned on me: I was now in Yifter’s camp, an enemy of science, a friend of magic.
The iron-eating man’s show no longer mattered to me. I had to find a way to get the nails out of my stomach. I walked back to our house, missing Nyle’s triumphant exit from the theater with an uneaten frying pan. I was furiously at work in my bedroom, trying to find a way to vomit.
When Nyle returned I had managed to fill a small bucket, but was unable to see or feel hard objects at the bottom. Concerned about the nails perforating the lining of my stomach, Nyle suggested that we visit our local doctor (who happened to be Spanish) and request an immediate examination.
I remember a vein throbbing in the young doctor’s temple as I explained the evening in my halting Italian. He was close to exploding with laughter at the foolish American standing before him, awaiting examination. Nyle and I watched with fascination as he probed my stomach, looking for the nails through an ancient X-ray fluoroscope. “Quindici” (fifteen) was his final verdict. They were small. The danger would pass (along with the nails) in 48 hours. Or possibly, it might not – the nails could perforate. He told me to come back if there was conspicuous bleeding in my stools.
As he drove me back to our house in his Land Rover, the Spaniard lectured me on proper colonial attitudes. “If the natives tell you up is down, just answer: Va bene! (OK in Ital-ian). If they say black is red, say Va bene! And if they say they can eat nails, for God’s sake use the same answer: Va bene!”
At various Peace Corps reunions my friends have asked me to repeat the “Nail Story,” and I have obliged, playing the role of the fool once again without hesitation. Yet I cannot dismiss my actions as the excesses of a young Peace Corps volunteer who had “gone native.” The French have their own name for the weird behavior of Europeans on the Dark Continent—the mal d’Afrique (African sickness). But on that dark night in Adi Ugri I know that I swallowed something more profound, more potent and consequential than Yifter’s nails. I still decline to give it a name, but I am certain that the mysterious quality I swallowed that night is still inside me, and it changed my life forever.
A month after the attack on the World Trade Center on September 11, 2001 I wrote an opinion that was published in the Los Angeles Times. It comes as close as anything I have written to describe the transformation available to anyone who struggles to leave his or her cultural cocoon:
Why celebrate the Peace Corps at all? What did it ever do to achieve peace? Why has anti-Americanism flourished even after our nation sent 140,000 of its “best and brightest” to spread goodwill? How many American volunteers served in Afghanistan? What did they ever teach other Americans about this complex Muslim culture? What did the fundamentalist Taliban ever teach us, if they hate us so?
I have more than a casual interest in these questions. Just as I graduated from college I heard the stirring words of President Kennedy: “...ask not what your country can do for you; ask what you can do for your country.” A few months into this grand experiment I became a Peace Corps volunteer, and it changed my life.
Nearly 40 years later I am neither wise nor cynical about my own service, and I respect the efforts of my Peace Corps colleagues, failed or otherwise.
We have tasted deeply of other cultures. We love America, yet we are now comfortable as citizens of the world. We are people with a mission. This mission is what our nation must now heed in its battle against terrorism.
After I struggled to teach English in Ethiopia without books for two years, some of my students managed to get good scores on their national school-leaving exams. Quite a few became refugees and now live in the U.S. A larger number were killed in the generation-long war between Ethiopia and Eritrea. Some survived and became leaders in the newly independent nation of Eritrea.
Here is how you measure success in the Peace Corps: I established a small library with books sent from the U.S. Years after I left Ethiopia a nomad child picked up one of these books, a math text, and discovered that he had a talent with numbers. He is a committed Muslim and grew up among orthodox believers in Sudan. He could have grown up to be a terrorist. Instead he is a math professor in Toronto. He tracked me down on the Internet.
What is this small voice that keeps the Peace Corps mission alive?
It is the stench and buzzing flies of poverty, seared into our consciences.
It is the hope that the lessons we taught and the lessons we learned will tip the balance toward self-sufficiency for proud and resourceful people.
It is the conviction that guns, flooding the world in such quantities that their price is cheaper than bread, will solve nothing for the weak or the strong.
It is our respect for local traditions: the Sharia courts, the village headmen sitting under spreading olive trees, the lilting stories and songs of our new languages—Urdu, Tamil, Swahili, Amharic, Arabic—that make us believe that peace is possible.
The “other” is no longer strange, weird or threatening.
There comes a point in every war when people on all sides grow weary of killing. They accept the undeniable fact that their common humanity is more fundamental than what separates them. This defining moment is called peace.
Every Peace Corps volunteer has witnessed the alchemy of the exotic becoming familiar. This experience—and the belief that it can happen again and again, even among those who are most hostile to our nation—is what eventually will make America secure.